This is a strict series of guidelines and instructions on fitting a Millington engine.
Fitting and starting the engine must be done correctly to maintain the overall life of the engine. If these guidelines are not followed the engine can suffer.
Post seasonal analysis will show if an engine has been neglected or mistreated in either the preparation of the engine bay or how well serviced it has been.
This can be seen on some of the engines internal components. Such as, in the certain manner the component has been marked or fatigued. Data logging and the engine histograms can also show unacceptable temperatures, pressures and sensor values.
- Air filter - Before starting your new or rebuilt engine, check that the air filter is not old or blocked. Unless you use a new or clean filter you can cause over fueling, poor starting which could lead to potential damage to the engines internals.The recommended air filter for Millington engines is the ITG Megaflow air filter. If you have a different type of filter, make sure it has sufficient filtration and that the inner element is not too close to the trumpets. It is recommended that the air filter is serviced after every event, although this greatly depends on the operating conditions. It more extreme climates the air filter should be serviced throughout the event. ITG filters do supply an extra outer section for these conditions.
- Clutch - The clutch must be set correctly so that there is 0.006"-0.010" end float when the engine is warm. If the end float is out of these parameters the clutch is not set correctly and will wear out the thrust washers.
- Check all Sensors - When installing a new or rebuilt engine you must use the correct sensors to match the ecu. For example : if a different Air Temperature sensor is used instead of the standard Bosch sensor, it can very easily cause a misfire or prevent the engine from running. Each specific sensor will have its own parameters within the ecu. So by using a different sensor you will not be matching the sensor to the parameters. When a sensor sends a false signal to the ECU, the engine will run in accordance to the incorrect or non existent sensor values. For example: A faulty water temperature sensor can cause the engine to under or over fuel due to the ecu's fuel compensation at low temperatures. If for whatever reason the crank sensor has to be removed or gets moved during installation, the sensor gap must be reset. Not resetting the gap, can cause starting and performance issues. To reset the gap the sensor must be re-positioned with a clearance of exactly 0.012" from the high data rate wheel. If the gap is larger, the crank sensor will 'lose counts' causing a misfire often at tickover. A smaller gap will put the sensor at risk of hitting the high data rate wheel.
- Check Loom -It is very important that when replacing or refitting an engine that the loom is the correct loom for the engine and ecu. The loom must be in good condition. Check for tight kinks, non standard wiring modifications, over tightened cable ties and replaced or non standard connectors. Faulty Looms will redoubtably cause misfires. Check and clean all earths when bolting the loom down. If in doubt replace loom.
Fuel - You must use the same fuel that the engine has been mapped on in order to achieve maximum performance and reliability. Most of our engines are mapped on 'Carless Racing Fuels - Hiperflow 300', which is '102' Octane Rating. We recommend Carless as the standard fuel for Millington engines.Some fuels have varied RON ratings when purchased in different country's. A different octane fuel can cause piston failure or a misfire. Do not run the engine under load with a different fuel. www.vitalequipent.co.uk www.morrowfuels.co.uk
- Fuel Pressure - The fuel pressure must be set the same as when the engine was mapped. Our fuel pressure regulators are fixed to either 2.5 BAR /36.25 PSI or 3.5 BAR/51PSI. Check that the fuel pressure regulator is installed correctly and is the one used when mapped. Do not change the fuel pressure regulator for a different type,as we have found that certain other regulators loose pressure at higher flow rates. Check that the fuel pump is producing the correct pressure. If the fuel pressure looks to be set higher it may have been mapped to a higher or lower fuel pressure. Check for notes in the ECU for this or contact us.
- Engine Oil -Before installing the engine, change the oil in the tank. Clean the dry sump tank (we recommend a strip and clean tank), oil pipes, filter and oil coolers or heat exchangers. Make sure you have more than sufficient oil in the dry sump tank at all times. Never let the dry sump tank level drop below 2/3s full. This can effect the deaeration of the oil. The dry sump tank must be a AH Fabrictions Millington tank. Oil catch tanks and oil breathers must be installed in a suitable place so not to suck up stones or dust etc. We recommend a high quality semi or fully synthetic oil such Morris Oils 'Multivis MLR 10W-50' (Previously X-RPM Competition 10W-50) https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/
- Oil System Bleed - Follow these procedures:
- Turn pulleys to timing marks (TDC). 3 marks in total. 2 on cams one on crank pulley.
- Remove the cambelt
- Fit all the pipes (once clean) except the one thats going into the block (pressure in -10 jic fitting).
- Spin the oil pump until oil comes out of the 'pressure in' pipe which was left unconnected ( catch in a tub if you like). Spin oil pump pulley using a speed brace or if access is tight, use a hand held pistol drill and an old cam belt to rotate clockwise.
- Now connect pressure pipe to block.
- Rotate until oil pressure is achieved and Oil is returning to dry sump tank.
- Engine bay Temperature/Air Flow - If the new or rebuilt engine is going in to a new or different chassis, the air flow through the engine bay must be sufficient. This is important as it can reduce heat transfer from the exhaust system to vital componants. Keeping the engine bay temperature cool is also critical to the performance and overall life of the engine. Air vents, grills, scoops and 'cutouts' are great for lowering the engine bay temperature. Check that the under bonnet temperature is less than 25-30 degrees celsios when the car is at speed. In warmer climates this can be difficult. The correct preparation for reducing under bonnet temperatures and air flow, can generate 'free power'. This is because when the air is cooler it becomes denser, allowing a greater volume of air, thus increased oxygen intake and producing a more efficient combustion.
- Throttle pot - After the engine and loom is installed, check that the throttle pot has not been moved or loosened. Check the throttle pot is functioning correctly by plugging into the ecu and observing the throttle position. Check that the 'THROTT' value is '0' with the throttle closed and '100' fully open. Also make sure that the throttle values raise and lower in a parallel fashion with the throttle pedal. Every unit between 0-100 should be available.Check that the values do not 'jump'. For Example 0-40 or 0-60-90-100. If the throttlepot has been moved or needs to be replaced, you can recallibrate it. Refer to the 'TPS Calibration Diagram'.
Engine Starting and Running
- When starting for the first time, run the engine on a 'fast idle' (1600-2000RPM) paying attention to the oil pressure, fuel pressure, and any slight indications that the engine is not running correctly due to an installation problem.
- Run the engine in gently under light load for the first 30 minutes. Keep the engine revolutions under 2,800 RPM until oil temp is at least 40°C. Stay bellow 4,200 RPM until oil temp is at least 50°C. Then keep under 6,500 RPM until oil temp is at least 60°C.
- The engine should only be driven hard if the water temperature is above 50°C and the oil temperature is above 60°C. The oil temperature should never be run continuously over 110°C (Although modern oils will run at higher temperatures we do not advocate it).
- Check that the water temperature stays around 60°C-80°C. Once the water temperature has reached 72°C the thermostat will open. Do not run the engine if the water temperature exceeds 100°C.
- It is recommended that the air filter is serviced after every event, although this greatly depends on the operating conditions. It more extreme climates the air filter should be serviced throughout the event. ITG filters do supply an extra outer section for these conditions.
- Do not exceed 40°C air temperature under high levels of load for long periods of time.(For best performance less than 20°C)
- Check engine oil level every time the engine is used by revving the engine to 3000RPM for 15 seconds, switch off and check tank immediately.
- Never let the dry sump tank level drop below 2/3s full as this can effect the deaeration of the oil and will reduce the life of the engine.
- Do not over rev the engine regularly. The engine rev limit is pre-set although occasionally, harsh down-changes can over shoot the limit. If the gear ratios in the gearbox and differential are set correctly the engine should not have to be held at the limit of its rev range for a long period of time.